Tillanchang Island to Little Nicobar

27 January 2011 | Eng hrs: 1873.7-1889 | Avg RPM 2,400 | Conditions: Rough seas 3-4m when not in the lee, winds consistently 20-30 kts.

Another tough passage day. Some relief when in the lee of Nicobar islands, but getting thrashed when exposed to the open. We are now totally dependent on the engine, as our mainsail contributes very little to power the boat and we have no headsail fitted. Huge waves shifting due E, sometimes SE, so we are bashing into them, which slows us to ~3 kts under full engine power. Seems like we are getting pummeled by one squall after another. Haven’t seen the sun since we left Port Blair.

Saw a few fishing boats and one passenger ferry, but otherwise fairly surreal, deserted Nicobar landscape. Lots of smashed trees. Presumably this western coast was hard hit by the tsunami.

Anchored in the lee of Little Nicobar, around midnight, in 15m. Needed some sleep, and original timing to cross the Great Channel was already blown. Plan is to motor tomorrow along Grand Nicobar, then start the last ~90nm open ocean section in the light, and arrive into the Sabang rip tides in the light as well. We are both worried about what the Indian Ocean has in store for us tonight.

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Port Blair to Tillanchang Island

25 January 2011 | Engine hrs 1869.1 – 1873.7 | 2,300 RPM | Storm – 48 kt winds

After sailing for more than 24 hours from Port Blair, gusty conditions with 20 kts wind consistently, we encountered a squall. 36 kts wind coming up suddenly from the east. Course now means we are close-hauled and bashing through 2m swell. First squall passed within 10 minutes. About 1:30am on 27 Jan 2011, wind picked up to 36 again, then immediately to 44kts. Sustained winds reached 48 kts for nearly an hour.

  1. Starboard nav light housing was ripped off, followed by LED lightbulb inside
  2. Attempting to go bare poles, as winds increased over 40 kts, furling line gave way, releasing the entire headsail and causing the rig to shudder violently
  3. Successfully furled the main
  4. Steering out of control, even with the engine at 2,200 RPM. Heasail luffing. Made decision to drop jib halyard, find it inextricably tangled with coiled ratline. Forced to cut halyward, to no avail as furling car remained at the top of the mast.
  5. Released jib sheets – cut one, figure 8 tore off the other going through the block. Sail tore free of webbing at the tack after an initial cut. Worked up and was flapping like a flag, bending the furlex extrusions badly
  6. 2 hours later we made it into the lee of an island, anchored in 20m
  7. At first light, we went up the mast and detached the head of the jib. Flaked and stowed the 140% genoa. With bent forestay, decided not to fit a new jib, but rather to motor with the mainsail in the hope of reaching Sabang, 200nm away
  8. Added a jerrican of fuel, bled additional dirty fuel from primary bowl, noted a water leak in the engine cooling system. Oil was full. Decided to take route in western lee of the other Nicobars
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Barren Island to Laccam Harbour

15 Jan 2011 | Start: 1220, Finish: 2323 | Eng hrs: 1859.0 – 1861.3 | Avg RPM: 2,400 | Conditions: About 1m seas, 10-15 kts wind consistent from NE, sunny

Woke up at 6:30, waiting for 9:30 so the light will be good for our dive. Will be first dive from the dinghy so expect mayhem. Not sure how we get the boat clean from so much volcanic ash, but we’ll deal with that later. Boat had been swung around a good bit. Chain had been caught short on a bombie right where it met the sea floor, so snubber was getting a workout. Chain kept mysteriously slipping and had to lower more chain slack onto snubber. Could tell when weight was on windlass and not cleats as boat would shake. Amazing dive down by the lava flow. Beached dinghy on small sandy cove and entered water from beach. Dove down to 30m. Saw 2 spotted rays, turtle. Surveillance planes overhead. Very survivor-esque camp setup under boulder, out of sight of surveillance. Adam freed the chain and had no issues getting anchor up. Tough to anchor by the beach and not upset some coral – if not with anchor then with chain. But swell is much calmer there. Around the island for a bit, but stopped as swell was big and killing our speed. Made our RPMs drop to 2k from 2.5k and speed down to 2 kts. Weird. Turned around and RPMs picked up and speed normal. Good 10-15 kts winds the whole way back – no motoring. Hitting us at about 90 degree apparent. Autohelm would fluctuate 30 degree at times, especially if she rounded up to far. Speed varied from 4-6.5 kts. Overall, good sail. Into Laccam before midnight. Port Control was actually on the radio – first time they were awake past 5 PM! Came in slightly west of our normal track and ran into 3.5m spot – yikes. Anchored same spot as when we left. Sleep!

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Laccam Harbour to Barren Island

14 Jan 2011 | Start: 0330, finish: 1315 | Eng hrs: 1851.3 – 1859.0 | Avg RPM: 2,400 | Conditions: Overcast in the morning, then sunny for the day. 1-2m swell with consistent 15-18kts wind on the nose

Woke up, put a jerry can in, and motored off directly into the wind for most of the passage to Barren. Moderate swell only sailable (without inefficient tacks) for the last couple hours of a 10 hour voyage. Could see Barren erupting from ~18 miles off – very cool. Anchored in front of a black sand beach in 7m on black sand and bombies. Fairly well protected from the rolling northeasterlies – pretty good given Barren isn’t all that big. Navionics chart was way off for Barren – showed us anchoring in the middle of the landmass.

Plumes of small jellyfish were everywhere – crystal clear water with black volcanic rocks covered in live and growing coral, lots of large fish. Found a wall near the newest lava field that drops off to 30m, and then to oblivion. This is the place for our dive tomorrow. Low flying (observation?) planes fly overhead multiple times per day – don’t think we were caught ashore, but not sure – it is technically forbidden to step foot on Barren Island. This is an incredibly special place. Slept in the shadow of the caldera with fine ash grains softly raining down on us all night (creating a surreal scene, and an awful mess).

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Long Island to Havelock #1 via Baratang

13 Jan 2011 | Start: 0830, finish: 1730 | Eng hrs: 1844.0 – 1851.3 | Avg RPM: 2,400 | Conditions: Calm, sunny, 1m swell once we reached open water

Started at low tide to reach mouth of Homfray Strait with 0.5-1.0m of tide underneath us. Plan to circumnavigate Baratang Island via Homfray Strait, connecting to Andaman Strait. No concern re: shelf at the entrance, as we never saw less than 6m on the depth gauge. Rest of straits were very deep (~15m+) with the exception of the power lines area, which was 5-6m deep on the south side near the ferry jetty, which is exactly where the high tension power lines are at their highest (away from the sagging middle). The pilotage states that “power lines limiting mast height to 25m were removed in 2006.” Well, they’re back, and I don’t think 25m would clear. Difficult to see from our perspective, but we are 15m and it looked pretty damn close as we were going under. Tide was still rising and current was flowing eastward (against us) so we had no trouble slowing to a crawl as we approached the lines. Some men on a nearby ferry started shouting at us as we got near the lines, which prompted a momentary panic given their superior perspective, but they eventually calmed down and then beckoned us through.

Stopped at a village that exists where the highway cuts across [ ] via 2 car ferries, one of which interrogated us on channel 16 – it’s cool man, we aren’t going to anchor right in the ferry channel. Dinghy ashore to get some rice and thali – we jump at any chance not to burn our LPG, eat our cooking, and then do the dishes. Which is not to say that our cooking isn’t delicious… No chapatti, roti, paratha, or naan available – just rice. Police asked for our restricted area permit, which was on the boat – they were satisfied that we knew where we were, and were merely hungry, so they left us along. On the way out of the straits, we passed a “mangrove cave,” which we were supposed to obtain a ticket to back in the village. Nobody knew anything about it there, and it looked underwhelming as we passed it, so we skipped it. So I still don’t know what a mangrove cave is.

Trailed the dinghy all the way to Laccam Harbour, through moderate swell, with my camera sitting in the beer holder. Sailed most of the crossing to Laccam after motoring the entire circumnavigation of Baratang. Almost cleared the Laccam point lighthouse without tacking (lazy) but the wind finally gave out at the crucial moment, and before we knew it we were in uncharted shoals of ~3.5m (up from 30m a few seconds earlier). I knew I was cutting it close, got lucky. Anchored at usual spot, then ashore for hamburgers at B3 in #1, and a quick Internet check at #3 along with provisions (eggs, Nutella, and more namkeen). Short sleep before passage to Barren begins at 3am.

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Lazy Day at Long Island

12 Jan 2011 | Conditions: Calm and sunny

Slowed down, put off circumnavigation of Baratang for tomorrow morning. Took dinghy down and went ashore near where the new jetty was being constructed, with iron and concrete pylons being hand-poured. Same design as the in-process jetty at Havelock #1. Walked through charming, strange village. Lots of British style station houses with broad porches, constructed of roughly hewn local boards. Entire village of children, all ages, were in a field practicing dances and marches for upcoming Republic Day celebrations. Only BSNL SIM cards work here. No cooked food to be had, but we did convince a girl to fry us 8 samosas and some chai. Bought potatoes, onions, eggplant, chillies, garlic, but forgot eggs. Not much protein in the diet. Saw signs informing us that Long Island requires a special permit from the dreaded Forestry Division – oops. No one hassled us. Very isolated and picturesque, yet completely electrified by a diesel generation plan, and connected via BSNL.

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Port Blair to Long Island

11 Jan 2011 | Start: 0800, finish 1600 | Eng hrs: 1835.8 – 1844.0 | Avg RPM: 2,500 | Conditions: Flat, glassy seas, minimal wind from strange angles, heavy clouds on the horizon

Uneventful departure from Port Blair. Seized the rigging with stainless steel wire, and added a jerry can of diesel before hoisting the dinghy and raising anchor. Bizarrely calm conditions, forced to motor all the way to the west side of Long Island. Engine sound seems better, but vibrations may have increased, especially standing near the mast. May also be simple paranoia. We found a line of black soot on the transom (where it sits partially submerged when we are motoring, but fully out of the water when sailing). Short, mild squall just as we passed between Long Island and Guitar Island. Guitar Island is covered in amazing original growth rainforest – incredibly tall trees everywhere. After the rain, a rainbow arched over Long Island, with both ends clearly visible. Anchored in 6.5m in the lee of Long Island, glassy flat anchorage.

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Rutland South Bay to Port Blair

05 Jan 2011 | Start: 0800, finish: 14:00 | Eng hrs: 1830.9 – 1835.8 | Avg RPM: 2,400

Motor sailed, partially to reach Port Blair sooner, and partially to charge the batteries which had somehow fallen to 12.3V. Swell large and confused coming around the point at Rutland, but moderated once we reached deeper water. Still, some large waves make it over the rails, soaking us in the cockpit when we least expect it. Made it into Port Blair with very little water, fuel, or provisions – time to restock and reconnect, as we have been without reception or Internet for some time now.

In Port Blair, ate lots of good (non-veg) curry and picked up some supplies:

  • A Q flag and an Indonesian flag – hand sewn for us from yellow, red, and white synthetic cloth purchased down the street at a total cost of 80 rupees
  • 2x20L water jugs, bringing total external water capacity to 80L, and total capacity to 530L. Ian and I use ~140L / week, and that’s with minimal showering (who is surprised?)
  • 2x throw pillows, to replace one that stuck to my sweaty back for a second, and then fell, bouncing overboard and rapidly receding into the Andaman Sea
  • Bajaj 220V fan for the galley to use with our new 220V outlets and the inverter
  • Food, diesel, petrol, water (Bisleris). We seem to be one of the only boats that doesn’t make a distinction between tank water (for washing) and drinking water, perhaps because we have a PUR filter. It might take donkeys years to fill our water bottles with the terrible pressure trickle that comes out of it, but we still think of it as a nice safety / survival feature to have so much drinking water.

CAIT is on track for next week according to our agent, Richard Lofthouse at Asia Pacific Superyachts.

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Chiryatapu to Rutland South Bay

Date: 04/01/2011 | Time Start: 0900 | Time Finish: 1130 | Engine Hrs Start: 1830.0 | Engine Hrs Finish: 1830.9 | Weather Conditions: blustery w/ 13-18 kts NE, large swell 2-3m

In the morning, Payal made parathas with Bombay Duck pickle – delicious! Had a swim and scrubbed some of the scuffs off the hull – one blue mark and the tire marks seem pretty tenacious. Decided not to fill the water tanks here given difficult dinghy landing and it will take hours and multiple trips with 40 L each trip and 500 L to fill. Added the water we got last night to the tanks after treating with bleach (1:5200). got underway, plenty of wind on the beam to a bit aft depending on bearing so we sailed. Engine began spitting black smoke at 2500 RPM (but not below that) so there is still something wrong, perhaps we need to tighten/loosen the injection pump or injectors. Arrived at Rutland with no shelter in sight – more nonstop rolling. Swam ashore, didn’t see any marine life – sandy bottom – walked along beautiful white sand beach, turtle tracks and eggs, met some Indian guys hanging out looking for Burmese refugees. Showed us a river where 2 guys were fishing. Lots of dead trees around, and apparently crocodiles (we didn’t see any though). Back to the boat, made a Penang curry w/ veggies for lunch and a coconut chicken curry for dinner – both delicious. Getting more down by nonstop rocking, mystery insect bites, shortage of water, etc. Batteries are strange, dropping to 12.1-12.3 V while monitor reads full, as if some amps are being drained but not picked up by Mastervolt.

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Neill Island to Chiryatapu

Time start: 0000, Time finish: 0700 | Engine hrs start: 1825.5, finish 1830.0. Avg RPM 2.5K. Conditions: Rough weather, squall with 28 kt gusts and rain, large 3m+ swell

Weighed anchor without putting another jerry can into the tank. Lucky on the anchor as it came off the bombies without a hitch. Motored with the wind directly astern until 3am in large seas. Pitch black with no moon, so difficult to see, but probably 3m+. Because we forgot at midnight, need to get a jerry can into the tank, so need to sail for a bit to turn the engine off. Lots of wind, but manageable on a run. Waves are the issue, however, as we were tossed into an accidental gybe (with wind at 120 degrees) by a big wave almost immediately after getting sails out. No damage, but things got a bit hairy at this point.

Waves would pull us higher and apparent wind would spike up to 26kts, despite best attempts hand steering (the autopilot couldn’t cope at all). Engine craps out. Loss of power (very noticeable change in sound) at 2,500 RPM, and I put her in neutral almost immediately assuming a badly fouled prop. She died in neutral eventually and the oil pressure light came on (as the key had not been switched off). Reefed down heavily (a bit late) and changed destination to Chiryatapu instead of Rutland so we could diagnose the prop / engine issue sooner, and it looks more sheltered from the NE.

Arrived around 7am and dropped anchor in 15m, not an ideal spot. Cleaned up the cabin (dishes had splattered everywhere), then took a look at engine. Nothing on the prop, but when she started, hard to idle and eventually died on her own. Pumped 56L of diesel in before trying, so not an empty tank issue. Perhaps air in the fuel lines from low fuel levels in turbulent seas while the engine was running? Tried to bleed the lines with the manual lift pump. Bled the first nipple, and there was air – encouraging. 2nd bleed nipple was seized so we had to skip it. Finally bled where the injectors meet the cylinders – no obvious air coming out as we cranked the engine. Then she started, but with a strange, uneven idle. Sound is also different on higher revs, as if the timing has changed, but don’t think we would have affected that.

Replaced bolts holding guide hook on windlass – chain was jumping badly as it fed into the gypsy, especially with 40+ meters out. Much tighter, and better performance so far. Tuned the rigging. Port baby stay was extremely loose – the new one. Need to seize these turnbuckles with stainless steel wire ASAP as they appear to be unscrewing themselves somehow. Rig is much tighter now.

Moved the boat to Chiryatapu village – anchored in closer but still no relief from rolling. Sriram’s father cooked us potatoes, bananas, and lentils for dinner. Taxi to nearest reasonable village, bought a whole chicken (1.6kg before butchering, 1.0kg after, we pay for the before weight). Picked up 2x20L jerry cans for filling drinking water – we are almost out. Were spoiled in Thailand. Rough dinghy launch – we found her smashing against the sea wall at high tide, and we were loaded with provisions. Back to the boat safe – didn’t even break an egg.

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